Written by Kim
We planned a free walking tour to explore Cartagena. Many of you know that we love to go off and explore via a walking tour and the one offered from Viator sounded expensive for what they offered so our plan was to take a cab downtown and join the free walking tour. Our ship was cleared a bit late so timing was tight to meet our tour. Alex texted the guide to inform him and he immediately called us. Evidently we were the only ones booked so he offered to meet us at the port instead of us taking a taxi to town. That should have been warning enough that we were in for an adventure.
Arturo arrived a few minutes later and informed us that he had a better plan than just a walking tour. He would take us to see the fort and a few other things. Just jump in this cab and I’m sure you’ll have a great time. I asked how much and he said we will work that up in the end (red flags were firing for me!). Anyhow, we jumped in the cab and off we went.
First a little background on Cartagena. As a former Spanish colony, it was a key port for the export of Bolivian silver to Spain and for the import of enslaved Africans under the asiento system. It was defensible against pirate attacks in the Caribbean. The city’s strategic location between the Magdalena and Sinú rivers also gave it easy access to the interior of New Granada and made it a main port for trade between Spain and its overseas empire, establishing its importance by the early 1540s.
It faces the Caribbean Sea to the west. To the south is the Cartagena Bay, which has two entrances: Bocachica (Small Mouth) in the south, and Bocagrande (Big Mouth) in the north. The Bocagrande (Big Mouth) is an area known for its skyscrapers. The area contains the bulk of the city’s tourist facilities, such as hotels, shops, restaurants, nightclubs and art galleries.
San Felipe de Barajas Fort was our first stop. The castle was built in 1639 and is located on the Hill of San Lázaro in a strategic location, dominating approaches to the city by land or sea. It was built by African slave labor under Spanish supervision during the colonial era. The views were incredible from the top of the fort. Everyone knew Arturo at the fort – street vendors, the other guides, the people working admissions. It was like we were with the mayor.
Some Africans that built the fort escaped and set up Palenque de San Basilio, a town close to Cartagena. This community began in 1619, when Domingo Biohó led a group of about 30 runaways into the forests, and defeated attempts to subdue them. This community still exists and you will find the woman all over the city in traditional dress with a fruit bowl on their head who pose for pictures for a fee.
Our second stop was Getsemaní. Once a district characterized by crime, Getsemaní, just south of the ancient walled fortress, has become “Cartagena’s hippest neighborhood and one of Latin America’s newest hotspots”, with plazas that were once the scene of drug dealing being reclaimed and old buildings being turned into boutique hotels.
As we walked through Getsemani Arturo wanted us to stop at his friends emerald store. Another typical tour guide gimmick. They get cut of anything you buy. I knew when we got the beers and talk we were in for a hard sell. I tried a few things on but they were ridiculously priced. The first earrings I tried on they wanted $1400 but immediately came down to $900. That is not my league. I like lots of jewelry and would rather spend my money elsewhere. But the emeralds were very pretty.
I did decide to buy a pair of earring in the store at the port. They were still kind of expensive but about 25% the cost of those in the other jewelry store and almost exactly the same.
Our last stop was Old Town. The main entrance to downtown is the Puerta del Reloj (Clock Gate), which exits onto the Plaza de los Coches (Square of the Carriages).A few steps farther is the Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Square), next to the mayor’s office. Nearby is San Pedro Claver Square and the a few churches
Well when we got back to port Arturo still didn’t give us a price. We took limited cash because we knew it wasn’t the safest city and were expected to just tip for a free tour. We gave home $70 but he looked disappointed. I thought that was fair. Oh well. Back at the port we stopped for a snack in the aviary. The port aviary is very nicely done
Our puppy was waiting when we got back. Dinner was in Izumi. It’s funny they say you can have 1 starter, 2 mains and dessert but the mains are only 1/2 a roll or 4 pieces now.
I’m a little behind in posted. We got into Aruba yesterday and spent overnight and today there. We just left Aruba heading to CocoCay. I’ll post about Aruba tomorrow. Wait till you see that crazy party! Until then…
